Fire and Water

Once, there was a dark city. Three rivers ran through it, but long ago, misguided city fathers had covered them up, channeling them underground. When the city finally underwent a long-awaited renaissance, the rivers were uncovered. To celebrate the new life of the city and the liberation of its rivers from their cement shrouds, braziers were erected in the river and filled with wood, to be set ablaze on temperate nights while drums thunder and flutes play. Voices would fill the night air with ancient sounding, harmonic chants mingling with trails of sparks blowing in warm zephyrs off the river. Gondolas would ply the waters and the people would come from many miles around to join the residents of the city in the ritual celebrating the rebirth of Providence, Rhode Island. The people call this beautiful, primal rite “Waterfire”. On Saturday evening, I was there at the water’s edge, sitting on the cool granite walls of the canal with thousands of others, waiting in anticipation of dusk. Then, at the exact moment of sunset, the sound of drums began and rose up above the waters. A black skiff appeared out of the shadows, carrying several black-robed figures. With torch in hand, one of them set the first brazier basket on fire as deep, booming voices began a chant. The festival had begun. The dark boat glided by, lighting each brazier as they went. As the river lit up with the flames, the granite walls of the canal began to glow pink and the warmth suffused us as we looked on, sipping red wine and nibbling pastries. A fire juggler appeared on a stone peninsula, cups of flame on gold chains, swirling around his bronze torso. A gondola approached, carrying a couple downriver. The gondolier wore a straw hat, and a black and white striped jersey. He poled his craft slowly along aside the flaming baskets. Next came a black skiff carrying a old man with long silver hair, dressed all in white. He handed out long-stemmed, red roses to random people who reached out over the water toward him as the deep, harmonic sounds of “Halleluyah”, by David Hykes boomed out across the river. The warm breeze sent a spangled ribbon of sparks cascading from each of the flaming braziers as my companions and I rose to walk along Canal Street, toward Memorial Park. There, at the dimly lit World War I monument, a group of statues would come to life this night. We had to see for ourselves. Sure enough, there we found a gargoyle, a Viking, a Valkyrie, a Grecian goddess, and a few other marble statues. As we watched, they suddenly came to life and slowly began to move, presenting onlookers with small scrolls containing oracles in exchange for dollar bills. The sound of “Nepalese Lullaby” by Neelam Shestha, floated on the night wind as we sauntered down to Market Square and the Rhode Island School of Design. We were surrounded by a gentle sea of humanity; all ages genders and races, ebbing and flowing, mingling happily on the granite waterfront. Dogs of every description, large and small, sauntered along with their owners, taking in the sights and sounds. There were carts selling all kinds of food and drink along the way, and the delicious smells mingled with the aroma of the wood smoke from the river. Artisan vendors offered their wares at tents set up on the side streets surrounding the waterfront area - glass jewelry, artwork and henna tattoos. Wine, beer and cocktails were served up as Dance lessons, Jazz bands, origami artists and mimes carried on nearby.  It's all  part of the scene on various nights during the season. Further along, toward the bridge we found a forest of trees hung with blue illuminated stars, twisting in the night breeze. I was told that these represented donations to cancer research. They created a magical grove near the fountain in Memorial Park. There is no admission charged for Waterfire; hundreds of volunteers and many more generous financial benefactors make it all possible. Waterfire is the inspired, artistic concept designed by Barnaby Evans, to celebrate the rebirth of the city of Providence. It is called an "installation piece", and some refer to it as a sculpture. By bringing together the two opposing elements of fire and water, Mr. Evans found a way to draw the people back to the heart of this beautiful port city. The sublime and intricate architecture of the older buildings, and the glass, polished stone and steel of the city's newer skyscrapers are illuminated by one hundred bonfires and reflect back their light, along with the rippling river surface. An ethereal mood fills the city on the nights when Waterfire happens in Providence. A Vivaldi piece ends and a  traditional Navajo song begins as we stroll across the Washington Street bridge and move (very slowly) toward the car. The black robed figures in the dark boats will continue to feed the flames until midnight. This was only one of many magical Waterfire nights each year. I have never been part of a more amazing happening of peaceful joy and sublime fun. My companions and I will be back, over and over again to be a part of the ritual and behold the spectacle that is Waterfire. What better way to welcome summer back to New England?